Complete the second collar in the same manner as the first. Gently taper the butt ends toward the eye of the hook. Wrap them carefully and securely form­ing an even, tapered head and apply more cement. Wrap again, and whip finish or half- hitch several times near the hook eye and cut the tying thread. Cement the thread head once again and let it dry. Once dry, cement the thread head one final time to provide a lacquered look. These lures will have to stand up to some abuse – including repeated castings and hopefully a few esox attacks - so rest assured, the mul­tiple applications of cement are warrant­ed. Your finished treble should look like the one in Figure 8. PART II – ASSEMBLING THE SPIN­NER Now, we'll complete the package with the crafting of a silver spinner body, making an inexpen­sive lure that will trigger the wariest of pike and muskie in the same manner that a twelve- dollar bucktail would. We will start with a twelve- inch long, .051- inch diameter inline spinner shaft. A pre- looped shaft allows for a perfectly formed con­nection point where the body components can stack up as we add them. Select several nickel- plated brass beads and a nickel- plated brass body with at least .051- inch diameter holes. These silvery components fit in perfectly with our treble hook's wound­ed baitfish color scheme. Most bead and body compo­nents will have a slightly flared hole on the bottom and a narrower hole on the top to aid in assem­bly. Thread two beads on the wire shaft and add the larger lure body on top of the beads. Then add two more nickel beads above the lure body, as illustrated in Figure 2. To create turbulence which will not only cause the bucktail hairs on the business end of the lure to pulsate, but Fig # 8 Fig # 1

also send a vibration to the lateral lines of pike and muskies, we will now add a spinner blade. Se­lect a large blade, such as a # 7 fluted Indiana blade, and a properly sized clev­is. Place the bottom hole of the clevis on the spinner shaft, thread the blade onto the clevis with the cup of the blade facing the shaft, and thread the top hole of the clevis onto the shaft. Your spinner should now resemble the one in Figure 3. In order to cre­ate the lure's con­nection point, you will need a pair of pliers and some muscle. Grasp the spinner shaft with a pair of round- or needle- nose pliers approximately one inch above the top bead. With your other hand, grab the unused tag- end portion of the spin­ner shaft extending above the pliers and bend it 270 degrees around the nose of the pliers. Do not bend the shaft of the spinner below the pliers as this could prevent the lure from rotating correctly, only bend the unused tag end. A proper bending of the tie- in point is illustrated in Figure 4. Applying a little more elbow grease, begin to wrap the tag end of the wire around the shaft below the pliers. Make three wraps around the shaft, forming a secure tie- in point that will not be bent straight by a big fish. Using a tin snips or small bolt cutter, clip the tag end of the wire shaft off, leaving a secure con­nection point for your leader as shown in Figure 5. To connect the bucktail treble to the Fig # 2 Fig # 3 Fig # 4